French Seam Studio: Changing my values: Working with G, Z and X Values!

It’s been a busy month, which is the way I like it! I have had the great fortune of spending time with Toni and Sarah at Integral T and delving deeper into Grafis. I tried developing my first basic block using g, z and x values and quickly realized how complex this exercise is. I decided to go back to the manual and complete the chapter on construction parameter g and z values to gain a better understanding of how it all works.

G values are pretty straight forward to understand and have been used throughout the exercises. They are quite simply the values of the current measurement chart. G1 = 1 uBr – Bust; G2 = Ge – Hip and so on.

G Values found in Edit Measurement Charts

The following exercise is good as a reminder on how the points and lines tool functions and becoming comfortable with inputting of G values as length values. In a new part organise start with creating a vertical line with the point+direction+length tool and input the length as G3. Divide the line with points, the first point is placed at 13% of G3, select your point tool and at a relative length enter 13 (%), placing the point on the vertical line from the top on the line down (right hand principle). To enter the other points enter G17 into the points+distanceonline, select the point and click the line pointing down to create the second point. Do this with the other points at G18, and from G18 create G10. Then construct the horizontal lines with point+direction+length, enter the g value length before clicking the line button. From point G10 a horizontal line with G2 length, point G18 line G4, point G17 line G1, first point (13%of G3) line G16. Finish the flag like shape with a line form point to point.

Practice G values by creating this flag like shape

The Z values are mathematically expressed formulas; calculated construction parameters. Found under the Extras menu is the input area for defining z values. The only way to become comfortable with using this field is to complete the exercises (perhaps a few times from the downloadable manual in Chapter 12).

The ½ Cirle skirt construction using the following formulas input in the Z Value table is shown below. Manually type in the following into the input field in the Z value window.

Z1 = G4/(2*Pi) waist measurement divided by 2 multiplied by the constant pi (3.1415927)

Z2 = Z1+G10+30 ZI plus waist to hip measurement plus 30

Z3 = Z1+615 - Z1 given skirt length from waist

Construct a 1/2 Circle Skirt using Z values

The waistband construction uses a slightly different method to populate the Z Value table in that you click the lines that you want to include in your formula. For example, gL is the syntax for ‘full length of a clicked line’ Refer to the manual for the complete list and explanation of the Z Value syntax.

Z1 = gL+gL+gL waist lines from front of trousers

Z1 = gL+gL waist lines from back of trousers

Top tip here is to count how many lines make up the construction of the waistband before you begin with entering your z values, or you’ll have to exit the function, go back and count then begin again.

Construction of a waistband for trousers

The batwing construction is a good exercise and refreshers users with the Transform function using turn and move, (flip back to Chapter 10 and check out page 138 for which points to click to effect the change and align the shoulder line back on front).

Set up x values for sleeve length and ½ sleeve hem width.

Use X Values to make a perfect bat-wing sleeve

Draw in a new curve and transfer the front length curve onto the back with the use of a z value. Use manipulate curve button to relocate end point. Measure to check seam lengths match up when sewn together.

The Skirt block construction was the highlight of this chapter for me, although I had to complete the exercise twice before my darts where interactive and changed position by changing the x values.

I think the top tip here is not to separate the waistline when you draft in the darts.