Thursday 11 April 2013

Exploring Grafis - week 1-3


Three weeks into my course learning Grafis and it’s apparent how involved and intuitive the software is. Grafis is developed by German engineers who value precision. The first version of Grafis that I looked at was Version 10, and in 2012 Version 11 was released and the look is very different, more pictograms and roll-over tags making it user friendly and easier to understand/remember the construction steps and navigate.

As an introduction to the new user interface we have become familiar with the Work Area for pattern construction, with the function strip of the basic menu (buttons down the right hand side of the screen) the quick tool Grafis toolbar (file open, save, print, magnify glass etc.) In the View menu the list of tool bars is found, I tick the first 4, the Info Box and Status bar I find useful as they give step-by-step instructions. 

From the Grafis website the Educational software version 11 is a free download and so is the Textbook (350 pages of detailed information and exercises). The textbook is also found under Help menu. There are some limitations to the free software, there is a timer but it is not intrusive and I use the pause to read the text again while it counts down from 10 (also I muted the sound).  What I’ve found so far is that you can’t Print or Plot files, Save Shape and Load Shape are also unavailable. But style files can be saved and opened later to continue an exercise.

The Call basic block opens up a list of all the basic block constructions that come with Grafis. Just by clicking through the different blocks, you have a good starting point for most commercial styles and additional information about how the block is constructed, under Help for basic block.
Fundamental to good pattern making is accurate measurements and this is available through the Measurement charts. The measurement charts are either generated from specific tables/charts or individual measurements that are input manually and can be edited. I was able to copy and paste the measurement table into an Excel spreadsheet.  Measurement charts are a single file and are not saved with a style, therefore regular data backup is needed. Grading becomes lightning fast. This is a big area in Grafis and I’m looking forward to learning more.

By calling up your basic block  using Call and then hitting F12, the block becomes interactive and the construction can be manipulated.  The shape can be adjusted using the set Options (right click) which give you a window of pictograms, using a slider to select required style options (i.e. straighten centre back, move bust dart to side seam, link hem direction at side seam etc) also available in this menu is Line relocation, Dart front, Dart back, Hem and Tolerance horizontal + vertical which allows you to put in ease. By starting with simple exercise to create a straight skirt and a blouse with vertical panel seams the tools are quickly learnt, its repetition that makes it become second nature. So practice!



Once you have completed drafting style features and altering your basic block pattern pieces can be extracted, this is done in the Part Organisation menu which we started to explore in week 3. For those of you familiar with Photoshop or Illustrator it works in a similar way to layers, where only one part is active at a time, and you can set parts visible and invisible with a “x”. You can also name your pattern piece for easy reference and organise the order they appear in the list. The Insert function is used to trace new pieces from the “mother” part, and is done using points, lines or parts. F5 will show you in red what you have traced off and ticking Deposit objects without transformation  function will turn the outline blue and then you can delete any unwanted lines (right click) and we used Separate menu, click cutting line (first select the line where you want your line to be deleted to, then click the portion of the line you want to keep). As I said earlier, practice, practice, practice!



Lastly copy to clipboard is a lovely feature that I can see being used in countless admin ways, I love to show other people what I’m doing and so this handy feature will come in “handy”. Although not available on the Educational version.

I'm only just starting out on this journey of discovery with CAD for patternmaking using Grafis, but what I’ve seen so far gives me confidence in the future of truly efficient  freelance patternmakers and designers. I was an early adopter of technology when I started learning Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator in 1996, and an early Dreamweaver/html web builder and graphic artist. It was when the internet was new, Altavista was our search engine and I was so excited. I have the same feeling with Grafis, excitement!

One final disclaimer, I am a student of Grafis, the above information is a review of my lessons and not intended for an instructional purposes. Please refer to the textbook for instruction.

Practice makes perfect!







Monday 8 April 2013

Minimal Tailored Look = Maximum Work


An exercise in tailoring was a journey into precision cutting, firm hand stitching and shape forming padding. Tailoring is a craft steeped in tradition and rich in a heritage of tweeds, worsted wools and finest woven cashmere wool and silk mohair, not to mention the layers of horsehair padding and linings. If only to feel, see and touch such luxurious fabrics. I chose a Max Mara double breasted Suit Jacket from the Spring 2011 advertisement. Worn by Karolina Kurkova and photographed by Mario Sorrenti. Here is the image courtesy of Max Mara, followed by my interpretation. 
The visible stitching around the edge of the lapel (pick stitching) is very 007 and the sign of a bespoke custom made jacket. 

 (note to stylist on the unwritten rule of never buttoning the bottom button on a double breasted jacket – a perfect 10/10).