360° Degrees of Separation

There is something fascinating about a circular skirt. The way it spirals when a women twirls and spins, the movement the fullness creates and the fall of the skirt as it pleats into organ pipe folds. It’s especially fascinating when worn by an expert belly dancer! Ozlem a teacher and performer at Mind Body Dance here in Melbourne showed me how it’s done when she put this beautiful flamenco skirt on and effortlessly demonstrated the dance that she will perform while wearing it.

This is a full circle skirt with a 130mm wide yoke on a 30mm wide waistband. The waistband has a 25mm wide elastic encased into it, a hook and eye closure that overlap by 1cm at the centre back (overlaps left wearing side over right), and a 120mm zipper in the centre back. The length of the skirt from the yoke is 630mm. There are 16 frills attached to the hem of the skirt (8 on the front skirt, and 8 on the back skirt) the frill is 160mm wide. These frills are cut as ½ circles. With good pattern engineering and a great marker this is a very efficient use of fabric with little waste.

In Grafis, call Skirt block 10; into part 001 and make active the basic block. Drag the lever to position 1.0 for a full circle and right click mouse for more options. Turn on measurements and I’ve chosen for this style Hip Curving (Y/N) 15mm. I had to later alter the fit of this skirt over the hip area to raise the hemline by make the yoke narrower (these changes are not reflected here). Also it’s a good idea to organise and name your parts at this point so you know what pattern pieces are needed for this garment i.e. Skirt Front, Skirt Back, Frill, Yoke, Waistband (label waistband with elastic requirements, width and length to be cut).

Yoke Development

Using the curve tool I place the style lines for the front and back yoke. Insert the yoke pattern pieces into a new part. Use the separate tool to tidy up the lines and then transformation with click line as mirror line on Centre front line to complete the front yoke. The Back Yoke has a 15mm CB seam allowance for the zip. Complete the pattern with text, notches, grain line and seam allowance of 10mm.

Front Yoke and Back Yoke Pattern Pieces

The waistband is constructed using the waist lines from the style development, inserting them into a new part and then generate a z value. Z01=gl+gl waist lines skirt front and back. Use point and line tool to draw line, remembering that Z01 is only ½ the waist measurement.

Back with Zip, Waistband and Yoke

Waistband Development using Z Values

Next, set a Raster of 8 on the perimeter of the ½ circle to calculate and make the frills. Construct a ½ circle with the distance measured between the raster 2 points on the perimeter (hem) of the circle. (336mm) Insert the perimeter and raster points into the frill part. 

Frill Development from Raster Points

Define a z value as follows; z01=gl*2/(2*Pi) this formula is the radius of the inner circle. Use line tool to create a guide line. Use circle tool to create the inner circle with z01 in the radius field. To define the outer circle (hem line of frill); add a z value to the table as follows; z02=160+z01. 160mm is the width of frill. Finish pattern piece with seam allowance, grain line, label and number to be cut 16.

Frill x16 (makes a wonderful full flounce on the hem)

Finished Pattern in Grafis CAD

Ozlem's Costume

Back Gypsy Tie Top

Part Organisation

Part organisation in Grafis and the exercises that follow in this chapter from the download educational manual (here) really is a consolidation of all that has been learnt in the previous chapters.

Part Organisation is the method Grafis uses to logically arrange the pattern pieces that are developed from basic blocks to style development which generates the pattern pieces for production, Grafis calls this “Hereditary automatic”. It is a genius way of viewing pattern pieces and insuring that the traced pattern piece (successors) using the ‘insert’ function in the basic menu all follow the mother part (ancestors). Insert without transformation is the most common method for passing hereditary information from one part onto another part. Therefore, alterations to the basic block are automatically transferred to the others pattern piece, there are however rules to follow; but Grafis warns you along the way… so read the pop-up boxes carefully before you proceed to make changes.

One very important rule to keep in mind is; “Hereditary information can only be passed on to parts with a higher part number”. Therefore as you make more pattern pieces the number of the part will be greater than the basic block which is called into the first part, which is typically 001, all other parts will have a higher number i.e. 008 waistband, 016 fly facing etc. In the educational version of Grafis (download here) you can only have up to 20 parts, which is more than enough to learn how it all works! In the licensed version the number of parts is limited to 500! (That's alot of pattern pieces)

Trousers with flared hem

In part organise you can also duplicate a part, this is simply a copy of the part in the same generation, it allows for the new development variations without the dependency of daughter parts, and can be used for comparison as changes are clearly visible when the pieces are layered, the duplicate can also be easily deleted or reset by clicking back. A simple example of this was to duplicate the waistband in a trouser exercise and change the x value that determines the waistband width. The x and z values are also duplicated to the copied part.

Duplicated waistband - one is wider!

Trouser with flared hem

In the exercise “Trouser with a flared hem” I learnt something new, and that is to use break sizes to adjust the values  for example knee widths and hem widths in the finished measurement drag area. This is done on the basic block, by activating the basic block, right click to select finished measurements and on the main menu bar click the ‘set break sizes’ button (which is highlighted in yellow) and input the values directly into the window.

Set break sizes in finished measurement

I really enjoyed these exercises because I was able to put all my learnt tools into action and I was guided through setting up the part organisation with correct labeling and inputting global x-values, step by step. These exercises maximize the satisfaction of learning to make a pattern in Grafis without the stress of having to figure it all out for yourself.

Check out the trouser back curved yoke, developed from the trouser with flared hem above.

Curvy back yoke on flared trouser

Straight skirt with yoke

The straight skirt with yoke was a chance to practice  the interactive Corner 30 (vent corner) tool. As you can see below I had to go over the basic’s again to get it right.

Skirt with simple curve yoke

Vent tool practice, again and again!

Skirt with box pleat

The skirt with a box pleat is something I have made many times, I drafted it as an exercise in flat pattern making and so I felt very comfortable to recreate it using Grafis. The area that I found tricky was I wanted to use the interactive Corner 30 vent tool for my back vent  at the hem and for the back zip seam width and length, but the interactive corner tool does not allow for x values to be used, so I had to just enter the values as is. I found this frustrating and need to find out why it did this… I must ask a Grafis expert! Perhaps it is just so and I should just use a line and curve tool to draw the vent shapes in.

Skirt with separate box pleat on Cf, with zip & vent on CB

Shirt blouse with pin tucks  in the front and various back variations.

The shirt blouse is developed from one used earlier in the lessons, page 68 in the manual gives you the steps to create the basic shape you need from bodice 10. I timed myself to see how quickly I could do this and it took 2 hours from start to finished pattern, seam allowances and all! Which I think is a great success as to do this manually would have taken double that time!

Shirt blouse with four different backs options

Flared skirt

The trick with the flared skirt was not to go ahead and use a perpendicular line but use the Line 10 parallel tool instead in case the hem is modified interactively later. X values are also part of the style development, determining the curve depth and the distance that the curve begin from the hip line.

Flared skirt development

Flared skirt pattern

Culottes

The interesting feature with the Culottes in the next exercise is that the fullness is not into the front hem but into the front yoke line. So don’t make the mistake I did when I first saw the raster in the front yoke line and spread the fullness into the hem of the trouser/culotte I had to quickly rewind my steps.

Culottes style developement

Culottes pattern

Dress with princesses panels

Dress with panel seams, looks pretty straight forward and then you have to make the facing. This involves becoming very comfortable with the Transformations menu ‘turn and move’ tool. (If you can’t remember have a look back in the manual to page 138) Try to remember it this way; 1 click what you want to move, 2 click rotation angle, 3 click final resting place of point 1, 4 click final point of rotation point 2. /or just look at pg 138J Odds and odds, evens and evens! As an added bonus you also get to use the Front part 20 tool and Back part 20 tool, which you will find in your pin cushion/sewing box icon on your main menu.

Dress with panels style developement

Dress with panel - Armhole facing

Dress with panels pattern

Long dress with sweetheart bust line and godets

Long Dress with godets. The godets are constructed using the transformation turn turn pt+angle and an x value to position length of the godet from the hem. This exercise also asks that you make a fitted shaped strap for the dress using the bust dart line, shoulder line, armhole and back, front dress design line.

Strap developement

Dress with godets pattern

Cargo pants

And lastly the casual trousers with two zip pockets in the legs and patch pockets. I really enjoyed making this pattern, I like puzzles with many pieces! It is also a very popular style, cargo pants and hiking gear, I’m always fascinated by these trousers! It makes me think of adventure and rough mountain trails in exotic locations, where you might need a torch and a knife… lol enough day dreaming!

Cargo pants pattern

As I have written before these exercises are from Grafis as part of the educational material they offer on the website. I really enjoy this CAD programme and hope to know it inside and out! Everyday I find something new and exciting about what it can do for patternmaking and getting a great near perfect fit! As a bye, I’m currently reading Meg Lukens Noonan’s The Coat Route – which is a story of a $50 000 coat. I’m relishing every word! Next time I hope to show you something from my sewing table  x

Changing my values: Working with G, Z and X Values!

It’s been a busy month, which is the way I like it! I have had the great fortune of spending time with Toni and Sarah at Integral T and delving deeper into Grafis. I tried developing my first basic block using g, z and x values and quickly realized how complex this exercise is. I decided to go back to the manual and complete the chapter on construction parameter g and z values to gain a better understanding of how it all works.

G values are pretty straight forward to understand and have been used throughout the exercises. They are quite simply the values of the current measurement chart. G1 = 1 uBr – Bust; G2 = Ge – Hip and so on.

G Values found in Edit Measurement Charts

The following exercise is good as a reminder on how the points and lines tool functions and becoming comfortable with inputting of G values as length values. In a new part organise start with creating a vertical line with the point+direction+length tool and input the length as G3. Divide the line with points, the first point is placed at 13% of G3, select your point tool and at a relative length enter 13 (%), placing the point on the vertical line from the top on the line down (right hand principle). To enter the other points enter G17 into the points+distanceonline, select the point and click the line pointing down to create the second point. Do this with the other points at G18, and from G18 create G10. Then construct the horizontal lines with point+direction+length, enter the g value length before clicking the line button. From point G10 a horizontal line with G2 length, point G18 line G4, point G17 line G1, first point (13%of G3) line G16. Finish the flag like shape with a line form point to point.

Practice G values by creating this flag like shape

The Z values are mathematically expressed formulas; calculated construction parameters. Found under the Extras menu is the input area for defining z values. The only way to become comfortable with using this field is to complete the exercises (perhaps a few times from the downloadable manual in Chapter 12).

The ½ Cirle skirt construction using the following formulas input in the Z Value table is shown below. Manually type in the following into the input field in the Z value window.

Z1 = G4/(2*Pi)   waist measurement divided by 2  multiplied by the constant pi (3.1415927)

Z2 = Z1+G10+30  ZI plus waist to hip measurement plus 30

Z3 = Z1+615 - Z1  given skirt length from waist

Construct a 1/2 Circle Skirt using Z values

The waistband construction uses a slightly different method to populate the Z Value table in that you click the lines that you want to include in your formula. For example, gL is the syntax for ‘full length of a clicked line’ Refer to the manual for the complete list and explanation of the Z Value syntax.

Z1 = gL+gL+gL  waist lines from front of trousers

Z1 = gL+gL  waist lines from back of trousers

Top tip here is to count how many lines make up the construction of the waistband before you begin with entering your z values, or you’ll have to exit the function, go back and count then begin again.

Construction of a waistband for trousers

The batwing construction is a good exercise and refreshers users with the Transform function using turn and move, (flip back to Chapter 10 and check out page 138 for which points to click to effect the change and align the shoulder line back on front).

Set up x values for sleeve length and ½ sleeve hem width.

Use X Values to make a perfect bat-wing sleeve

Draw in a new curve and transfer the front length curve onto the back with the use of a z value. Use manipulate curve button to relocate end point. Measure to check seam lengths match up when sewn together.

The Skirt block construction was the highlight of this chapter for me, although I had to complete the exercise twice before my darts where interactive and changed position by changing the x values.

I think the top tip here is not to separate the waistline when you draft in the darts.

X Values

Z Values

Construction of the Children's Hat was also a fun exercise and I have actually made this little beanie!

Children's hat with flower 

Adult beanie using the same graded pattern

The following constructions used X, G and Z values and can be found at the end of Chapter 12 in complex exercises…Enjoy!

Shorten side seam with Pinch Tool 20 at the hip & apply Z values to raise back side seam

Stand-up collar construction with Z Values

Design lines added with Z Values for panels in a dress block

Pattern pieces extracted from above dress block

H&M Australia Melbourne GPO

H&M has arrived in Australia! The store opened Saturday, 5 April at 10:00am with 3000 fans or more through the doors.

H&M GPO Melbourne Interior - picture courtesy H&M 

This is their second largest store, 5000 square metres comprising of 3 levels of fantastic fashion, accessories and stylish home wares. Customers queued all night and where generously catered to in the morning by H&M Care Carts serving coffee and juice, while beauty carts offered touch ups! At 9:00am  DJ Anna Lunoe rocked the crowd into a party spirit! The first shoppers where rewarded with a unique t-shirt designed by Sharon Clues at RMIT.

Queuing crowd for H&M 5 April 2014 - picture courtesy H&M

This celebration of fashion is what H&M is about. When speaking to the senior management team at the VIP event on Thursday, 3^rd April their enthusiasm and passion are contagious, their aim is to rejuvenate, excite and create an amazing shopping experience in the heart of Melbourne!

The heritage (General Post Office) GPO building is painted a clean Scandinavian white; the garden party theme with deep green foliage is fresh and youthful, with dressed-up mannequins on swings adding a sense of fun and freedom! The vastness of the gallery lends itself to the stunning grandstand displays of clothed mannequins highlighting the most desirable looks.  The high quality and on trend fashion at purse friendly prices are irresistible! Pictures below from VIP Event shopping!

It's vast and beautiful!

She swings - so fresh, so chic!

Accessories looking delicious, so were the hors devours created by Melbourne-based chef Adam D'Sylva

Designer inspired shoulder bag 

The Look - floor to ceiling fashion inspiration

It's a fashion station with luggage trolleys!

Check out!

The Haim sisters DJ'd the party - picture courtesy H&M

Launch party - picture courtesy H&M

Go online to H&M and see the whole range, its worth coming to Melbourne for! It’s all available at the GPO and there’s more with a limited edition range designed exclusively for Australia, you just have to be in Melbourne to buy it because the online store is yet to be launched, but until then get into town because this store makes you want to shop!

I have always loved the children's wear at H&M and whenever we have been in Stockholm have bought the girls a couple of cool outfits. The prints range from pretty floral prints (but look closely there might be a skull and cross bones hidden in amongst the flowers) to quirky cats, with ribbon and button details. The accessories especially hats, gloves and beanies are great, we've had many pairs over the years and they last and last! I love the fact that my children look like children and not mini adults. I often get compliments on their clothes and asked "where did you buy it?"  Now I can say "you can get it from H&M!" 

Children's wear on the top shelf, actually the 2nd floor of the GPO

Homewares on the 3rd - cushion covers for only $9.95

Over the last 7 years H&M have grown the number of store by an average of 13% and have plans to open more stores across Australia. The H&M team from Stockholm had a tight itinerary with flights up and down the coastline looking at other beautiful buildings to breathe new life into. To date H&M has 3192 stores worldwide, in 2014 they plan to open 375 new stores worldwide.

Men's wear at H&M is a hidden treasure. The clothes are well cut and fabrics a good quality, Swedish men look great and always look sharp. The styles are mostly classic with some nice suits, blazers and lots of good basics. 

Mens Suits, Shirts & Ties at the GPO

Good basics for men

Love the pony - perfect for men in Victoria's winter

Most of the people that I know who work at H&M have been there for many years. This to me says a lot about the culture of a company when they can retain their employees and grow and promote staff internally. Their dedicated staff know the company systems and they way it works from the ground-up. I think this is what makes them so successful and confidently ambitious, it’s a loyal family with a shared set of values and the same vision.

Leather jacket, animal print blouses & knits

Denim bohemian tassel tunic & hanging to the right the embroidered velvet drawstring bag!

That dress!

...and That Jacket!

That's for your motorbike Jenny!

Lots of lovely boots, and the star print tunic I'm holding is stella!

Richard Nylon & Jenny Bannister - Australian Legends!

Delightful staff to share a laugh at the counter!

As for my gorgeous family, we no longer need to buy yet another suitcase when in Stockholm to pack all the H&M outfits into to bring back to Oz we just need to hop on the tram!